National Gallery of Modern Art (NGMA), Mumbai, Kala Ghoda Association, and Avid
Learning present Uncovering Urban Legacies: Icons of Bombay – Fountains,
BEST Buses, Street Food.
What do an ornate heritage fountain, a red
double-decker bus, and a spicy vada pav have in common? These urban symbols are
bound together by their deep-rooted presence in the everyday life of Bombay.
Whether pouring quiet beauty into the city’s traffic-filled junctions, zipping
across neighbourhoods through the city’s endless monsoon, or serving
lip-smacking flavours on street corners, they carry a sensory and emotional
thread in the story of the city.
After traversing Bombay’s diasporic
communities and historic precincts, we return with the next iteration of our Uncovering
Urban Legacies series. In the third episode of this edition, we turn our
gaze to three more enduring and evocative emblems of the city. The 19th-century
fountains were not merely ornamental, but civic and philanthropic landmarks,
once again flowing with life. The
BEST buses, which first took to the streets with horse-drawn trams in 1874,
have evolved into a modern, electric fleet, yet remain an accessible,
egalitarian lifeline. Street food, meanwhile, remains the great leveller of the
city’s culinary imagination, feeding everyone from college students to office-goers with affordable fare, and offering a
bite-sized reflection of the city's spirit.
Join us for an evening of stories and chronicles as we decode how these everyday icons continue to reflect the beauty, utility, and taste of a city forever in motion.
The Bygone Era of Living Fountains in Mumbai
Water charity has been an integral part of the social and cultural traditions of the Indian subcontinent. During the colonial rule, around the 18th and 19th centuries, several wealthy businessmen funded a range of public infrastructures and amenities, including the drinking water fountains, which are popularly known as the ‘Pyau’ or ‘ Pyaav’ among the locals. These fountains were laid out to quench the thirst of a wide population travelling across the bustling Tram routes stretching from the Fort to the Dadar area for business and trade activities. However, today, most of these fountains are either non-functional or have running water for a limited time. Several individuals, such as Mr. Rahul Chemburkar, are working on the conservation of these ancient fountains, and Dr. Varsha Shirgaokar has researched and documented these structures. Some of the well-known fountains across the city include the Flora Fountain at the Hutatma Chowk, Ruttonsee Mujee Jetha Fountain at Ballard Estate, Bomanjee Hormarjee Wadia Clock Tower with Pyaav and Mancooverbai Ardon Pyaav, outside Horniman Circle Garden in Fort.
The Iconic Red Buses of Mumbai
Every person who has lived in Mumbai or visited the city has a fond memory of seeing or riding in the iconic red buses on the city’s roads. The story of these buses dates back to the establishment of the Bombay Tramway Company in 1873. The horse-drawn trams were the first models of buses in the city. The Bombay Electric Supply and Tramways(BEST), established by the city municipality in 1905, took over the old Bombay Tramway Company. This is the period when the single-compartment electric trams came to the city, followed by the introduction of double-decker trams in 1920. The buses evolved in multiple forms from the Motor bus, buses with postboxes for passengers to drop in letters, the trolley bus powered with electric wires running overhead, the evergreen and most famous, the double-decker buses, to the modern-day electric air-conditioned buses. This interesting history of the BEST buses has been immortalised at the BEST Museum in Sion, dedicated to tracing the evolving transport system of the city.
Mumbai Street Food and Khau Gallis
Mumbai is renowned as one of the most cosmopolitan cities in the world. It has been a home to a range of diverse communities. The Portuguese introduced and popularised the art of making bread in Bombay. The pao has been a significant part of the street foods of Bombay since then. It is found in a majority of combinations, ranging from traditional vada plus pao combo, the pav-bhaji, a range of dishes in the popular Irani cafes of Bombay, like the keema pav or a different form of the bun maska with chai. The Bombay sandwich is another popular item with a different style of bread and a range of chutney and vegetable fillings on the streets of the city. The chaats are a special combination offering a variety of tastes like spicy, tangy, sweet, and salty in a bite in the forms of bhelpuri,sevpuri, and panipuri. The lanes offering diverse food options in Mumbai are termed as Khau Gallis. Some of the most famous khau gallis are near Crawford Market, Zaveri Bazaar, Mangaldas Market Khaugali, near the Mumba Devi temple, Mohammad Ali Road for a range of non-vegetarian options, Ghatkopar Khaugali and Mahavir Nagar Kandivalli. With modern tastes and trends, the street food of Mumbai continues to integrate the diverse food preferences and remains the go-to choice of the Mumbaikars.